Great guide to 3D glasses
There is a big variety of different models and brands of 3D glasses on the market, which ones are the best? Which will work with my projector or 3D TV? Truly, choosing a suitable glasses is not an easy task. Let’s divide glasses into two main categories. Passive and active.
Passive 3D glasses
Passive polarizing glasses can be based on a polarization technique or work as a colour filter. If you have a set of 2 projectors with polarizing filters, than you have to buy a polarized glasses. But that’s too easy right? 
This might end up in a situation where you will have polarizing filter and polarizing glasses but the system will still refuse to work. This might be caused by several reasons: Orientation of your filters on projectors does not correspond with the orientation with the polarizing filters in glasses in case of using linear polarizing filters. You are using incompatible set of polarizing filters together. That means circular polarizing glasses with linear polarizing filters or vice-versa. So, it’s very important that you know if you are using circular polarizing filters or linear polarizing filters. Passive glasses are available from numbers of different manufacturers in a lot of styles. From cheap paper glasses to more complex lenses that can be attached to your diopter glasses. Passive colour filter glasses doesn’t rely on polarization. Very common, very cheap and not plausible to use are anaglyph glasses. Anaglyph glasses cannot be taken into account for serious 3D viewing. Each company has their own colour filter technique, therefore there are not any universal glasses. If you own Omega system, then you will need omega glasses.
There are lot of active glasses on the market. Which one to choose? First, it’s important to know whether you need a 120Hz or 144Hz glasses. This will be written somewhere in the specs of your TV or projector. Of course 144Hz are much better because of faster refresh rate / less flicker. When we know what refresh rate we need, it’s time to choose. There are two main types of active 3D glasses.
DLP-link
DLP-link glasses works only with DLP 3D projectors which support this technology. Once again you have to look into specifications of your projector if it supports DLP-link. It doesn’t need any external emitters. The chip on the projector will send visual signal in between the movie frames and glasses will synchronize using it. People are usually reporting that the 3D effect is not that great, synchronization not perfect, there might be a little ghosting or cross talking. DLP-link glasses are pretty cheap starting from $20 USD.
IR/RF
These means infrared emitter and radio frequency synchronization. Both are very precise and perfectly synchronized. Infrared emitters work just like remote control of your TV using infrared diode. 
Radio glasses work precisely like remote keys from your car. Infrared system has its downside, and that is that it relies on light. If the emitter gets blocked by something/somebody, your glasses might temporary get out of sync. Radio system works great under all conditions and is the most recommended. Don’t forget that you will also need an RF emitter for your RF glasses.
Useful tip: Usually there are all models of supported projectors/TVs written in the description of each 3D glasses.
Active 3D glasses and batteries
Great advantage of passive glasses over active ones is their price and the fact that they don’t have to be charged. But how long will the battery in active glasses last? Is it really such a problem?
Batteries nowadays are performing much better than they used to in the past. Active glasses with RF technology often lasts up to 70 hours of watching, recharge time is then only 3,5 hours!
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